Q: Are concealed push bar panic devices allowed for use on doors containing Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components?
|
A: No..
|
Q: Can I change an order? What is the latest date I can change an order?
|
A: Changes may be made at your convenience until close of business on the Thursday prior to the week of shipment. After Thursday, we may not accept changes if your order has gone into production.
|
Q: Can I have an “S” label on a 45, 60 and 90 minute door containing Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components?
|
A: Yes, all 45, 60 and 90 minute fire doors containing Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components qualify for an “S” label opening, provided an appropriate fire-rated smoke and draft control gasket is used.
|
Q: Can I use “Ving” type electronic locks?
|
A: Yes, as long as the mortise cutout does not exceed that denoted in the Georgia-Pacific Gypsum specification.
|
Q: Can I use metal edges on positive pressure pairs of doors?
|
A: Only on 20 minute 8080 pairs.
|
Q: Can I use more than 100 square inches of glazing in 60 and 90 minute fire doors?
|
A: Yes, the doors would not be considered temperature rise per NFPA 80.
|
Q: Can I use surface astragals?
|
A: Yes, on all doors.
|
Q: Can we use 4” hinges?
|
A: Hinges must conform to NFPA 80 table 2-8.1.1 requirements.
|
Q: Can we use concealed closing devices in positive pressure doors?
|
A: No, there are no approvals at this time for concealed closing devices tested to positive pressure requirements.
|
Q: Can we use fire doors made with Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components for fire rated doors for exterior applications
|
A: No, Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components for fire-rated doors are not intended to be used in exterior applications.
|
Q: Can we use frames other than 16 gauge steel frames with Georgia-Pacific Gypsum approvals?
|
A: Yes, as long as they are labeled and listed for use with fire doors containing Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components for fire doors. Check the frame manufacturer's listing or contact us.
|
Q: Do I have to arrange transportation of my order?
|
A: All orders are shipped FOB our plant location. You may arrange your own carrier or have us make the selection. Orders must ship within 48 hours of completion. All orders are shipped “freight collect”.
|
Q: Do I need to use intumescent to build positive pressure doors?
|
A: The choice is yours. Georgia-Pacific has certifications that do not require the use of intumescent in the door or on the frame. Certifications are also available for doors and frames constructed with intumescent.
|
Q: Do the intumescent free approvals require a smoke control gasket at the meeting edges of pairs?
|
A: The Pemko S77 meeting edge smoke control gasket is only required if a smoke and draft control opening has been specified. Concealed intumescent is still required on all 45, 60 and 90 minute meeting edges.
|
Q: Do wood and steel doors that contain Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components meet the 250 degree F @ 30 minutes temperature rise requirement?
|
A: Yes
|
Q: Do you export product?
|
A: We will quote export orders directly on an order-by-order bais. Quotes are provided on a DES ("Delivered Ex-Ship") term to a Port of Foreign Destination.
|
Q: Do you have EDI capabilities?
|
A: Yes. For invoicing only at this time.
|
Q: Does Georgia-Pacific Gypsum produce and sell fire doors?
|
A: Georgia-Pacific Gypsum manufactures and sells components for fire-rated doors but does not manufacture its own fire doors.
|
Q: Does Georgia-Pacific recommend any facing materials, adhesives, hardware or other door components for use in building fire rated doors?
|
A: Georgia-Pacific manufactures only composition edge banding and core materials and does not manufacture the facing materials, adhesives, hardware and other door components used to build fire rated doors. Although certain facing materials, adhesives, hardware or other components may have been tested and included as part of a component or system specification, it is the responsibility of the door manufacturer to confirm the performance characteristics of such components used in their door product(s).
|
Q: How do I get certified to use Georgia-Pacific fire door products?
|
A: First, you will need to obtain an updated “Authorization to Mark” form signed by your listing agency representative. Second, you will need to obtain labels from the certifying agency you determine meets your needs. Third, you will need to obtain updated specifications that include procedures for products complying with Georgia-Pacific certifications. You will be required to have a written authorization from Georgia-Pacific Gypsum.
|
Q: How much lead time do I have to give the plant when placing an order?
|
A: Normal lead time is one week. An order placed by Thursday will ship from our plant by Friday of the following week. During very busy periods this may extend by one week, not more.
|
Q: How much wood after trim is allowed on a positive pressure stile?
|
A: ¼ inch.
|
Q: Is kerfed core available for hot pressing?
|
A: Yes
|
Q: test
|
A: No.
|
Q: Should hardware-mounting holes be pre-drilled?
|
A: Yes, pilot holes must be pre-drilled.
|
Q: Should I use blocking at hardware locations?
|
A: Georgia-Pacific Gypsum recommends the use of blocking to ensure long term serviceability.
|
Q: What happens if the product is damaged when I receive it? What happens if I have a claim?
|
A: Since orders are shipped FOB our location and freight collect, it is your responsibility to file claims for shipment damage directly with the carrier.
|
Q: What is a smoke control door?
|
A: A fire rated door used in conjunction with a listed smoke and draft control gasket.
|
Q: What is a temperature rise door?
|
A: A fire door that by code, meets a maximum unexposed surface temperature requirement at a specified time interval during the fire test. (i.e. 250 deg @ 30 minutes)
|
Q: What is required for an opening to qualify for an “S” label?
|
A: A fire-rated smoke and draft control gasket system would need to be applied to the perimeter and the meeting edges of pairs. The smoke and draft control gasket must be “listed” for compliance with UBC Standard 7-2-1997, Parts I and II.
|
Q: What is the best way to machine Firestop® material?
|
A: Diamond or industrial grade carbide tooling. Reducing the feed rate and lowering the tool rpm will increase tool life and reduce dust.
|
Q: What is the difference between Category “A” and Category “B” fire doors?
|
A: A Category “A” fire door does not require an additional edge sealing system. A Category “B” fire door requires an additional field applied edge sealing system.
|
Q: What is the minimum number of doors per a specification?
|
A: There is no minimum per size or specification provided you order at least 40 total cores. There is an upcharge for less than ten pieces of a size and rating.
|
Q: What is the minimum quantity I can order?
|
A: One pallet of 40 pieces of mineral core.
|
Q: What is the normal packaging for the material? Do I have to pay extra for packaging?
|
A: All products for full truckloads are shipped on pallets. LTL (less than truckload) shipments are stretch wrapped at no extra charge. LTL orders are crated to protect them from damage and extra charges may apply. You will be informed of any crating charges prior to time of shipment.
|
Q: What is the pre-drilled screw hole diameter?
|
A: For a #12 hinge screw Georgia-Pacific Gypsum recommends a 5/32-inch pilot hole. Other screws, the pilot should be 85-90% of the root diameter of the screw.
|
Q: What is the STC rating of doors made with Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components?
|
A: Because Georgia-Pacific Gypsum does not make doors, we urge our customers to obtain their own STC ratings with sound gasket systems of their choice.
|
Q: What kinds of door skins can be used with Georgia-Pacific Gypsum
fire door components?
|
A: The majority of architectural wood flush doors use a wide variety of wood veneer species. The most popular veneers being Red Oak and Birch. High-pressure laminates (HPL) are approved, but make up a much smaller portion of the market. Molded hardboard door skins and fiberglass are also options.
|
Q: When I machine for hinges, sometimes I go through the wood into the composite material. Does this affect the door’s fire rating? Will it affect screw holding?
|
A: Please check with the door manufacturer concerning the fire-rating of a particular door.
|
Q: Which testing organizations and code approvals certify door assemblies containing FireDefender® components?
|
A: The two main certifying agencies in the United States are: Intertek ETL-Semko (ITS) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL). U.S. codes tested to include; ASTM E-152, UBC 7-2 (1997), UBC 43-2, UL 10b and UL 10c, NFPA 252, International testing codes include; British Standard 476 Part 22, Japanese Industrial Standard, CSFM 12-43-4, Can4 S104.
|
Q: Who builds doors using Georgia-Pacific Gypsum components for fire-rated doors?
|
A: Many of the major door manufacturers in the United States. A map with location and contact information for some of the leading manufacturers is contained in this web site.
|
Q: Whom do I contact at Georgia-Pacific Gypsum to become certified to build fire door assemblies and purchase product?
|
A: The sales department located in Atlanta, Georgia will assist you in meeting the requirement necessary to get you started. Sales can be reached at 404-652-2518; fax 404-588-3833.
|
Q: Are there any advantages/disadvantages of synthetic vs. natural gypsum in performance, finishing, and other attributes?
|
A: Gypsum board produced by Georgia-Pacific gypsum using natural gypsum, synthetic gypsum or a blend of the two meet identical performance standards.
|
Q: What is the difference between Type X and Type C gypsum board?
|
A: Learn more about fire ratings of gypsum board at gp.com/safetyinfo.
|
Q: What should we do if paper-faced gypsum board gets wet?
|
A: Gypsum board should not be allowed to get wet; it should be covered if stored outside. However, there are situations where the board could get wet in transportation/storage and during installation. If the board gets wet in an installed in-place situation, first remove the sources of moisture. Then allow the board to dry out thoroughly. Once the board is dry, examined it for paper-to-core bond failure, mold growth, nail pops and sag, (in case of ceilings.) Paper-to-core bond failure and board sag are irreversible damage and the board should be replaced. Mold can be cleaned using vinegar and water solution or alternatives (use care when using bleach or chlorine solutions.) For nail pops, place a fastener an inch above or below any popped-up nail.
|
Q: How are DensArmor Plus® Abuse-Resistant Interior Panels different from 5/8" DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels?
|
A: DensArmor Plus® Abuse-Resistant Interior Panels have a thicker fiberglass back mat and denser core, than DensArmor Plus high-performance interior panels. Our abuse-resistant product can stand up to high traffic and resists surface indentation and scuffs that can cause costly repairs and maintenance. Both products are more abuse resistant that traditional paper faced drywall.
|
Q: How do the product enhancements to DensArmor Plus® Abuse-Resistant Interior Panels affect their moisture and mold resistance?
|
A: The abuse resistance enhancements to DensArmor Plus Abuse-Resistant panels do not affect its mold resistance. The enhanced fiberglass mats on the panel, plus the moisture-resistant core provide the mold-resistant properties of the product.
|
Q: Is DensArmor Plus® Abuse-Resistant Interior Panel considered impact-resistant?
|
A: No. It is not tested for hard body impacts.
|
Q: What makes DensArmor Plus® Abuse-Resistant Interior Panel abuse-resistant?
|
A: A more dense core and fiberglass mats enable the product to meet stringent standards for abrasion, indentation, and soft body impact resistance. DensArmor Plus abuse-resistant interior meets a Level 3 for surface abrasion; Level 1 when tested for surface indentation; and Level 1 for soft-body impact, all when tested in accordance with ASTM C 1629.
|
Q: Are DensArmor Plus® High-Performance Interior panels mold-resistant?
|
A: Yes, DensArmor Plus panels are mold-resistant based on testing, as manufactured, per ASTM D 3273. Please click here for more information. (pageviewer.aspx?repository=bp&elementid=7929)
|
Q: Can a contractor use DensArmor Plus® in a pool area, or a pump house and other areas of extreme moisture?
|
A: DensArmor Plus® is a suitable panel to replace green board. It should not be specified in areas that will see moisture levels higher than that of a residential bathroom. For pool areas, see DensShield® Tile Backer.
|
Q: Can DensArmor Plus® be used anywhere else besides the interior of the exterior wall?
|
A: Yes; any interior wall, basement wall or ceiling that is at risk of moisture are sound applications.
|
Q: Can DensArmor Plus® be used as an exterior sheathing?
|
A: No. DensArmor Plus® should not be used on exterior applications.
|
Q: Can DensArmor Plus® be used in an exterior soffit?
|
A: Yes, DensArmor Plus® is suitable for soffit applications where it is not exposed directly to the elements. It can be finished using a setting-type joint compound prior to priming and painting.
|
Q: How do you install and fasten DensArmor Plus® panels?
|
A: DensArmor Plus® drywall scores, cuts and fastens like traditional gypsum wallboard. Conventional drywall nails and screws are used to fasten it. Download the DensArmor Plus Wallworks Guide (PDF: 1.5MB/8pgs) for complete instructions. For information on our abuse- and impact-resistant panels, click here to download the technical guide which includes installation instructions. (link to 621541)
|
Q: How does one finish DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels?
|
A: Download the Wallworks Guide (PDF: 1.5MB/8pgs) for complete instructions.
|
Q: Is there a mold warranty for DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels?
|
A: There is no mold warranty. However, DensArmor Plus® drywall carries a 12-month weather exposure limited warranty limited warranty (PDF: 496KB/1pg).
|
Q: Is there an MSDS sheet available for DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels?
|
A: Yes, MSDS sheet #72 for DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels is the same for all other Dens™ non-paper-faced fiberglass-mat gyspum products. Click to download the PDF
|
Q: What are the similarities and differences in DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels and DensShield® tile backer?
|
A: DensShield® tile backer and DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels similarities: Both use coated fiberglass mats as the back facer material. When installed against the wall framing, both products provide a fiberglass mat surface facing the wall cavity that resists possible mold growth on the back of the panel. DensShield and DensArmor Plus both have cores that are moisture resistant, manufactured to ASTM C 630 specifications. DensShield and DensArmor Plus differences: DensArmor Plus does not have a water-stopping acrylic coating. The coating on DensShield provides a water barrier to stop moisture from penetrating into the product and wall. DensShield is made to be used in wet areas such as showers and tub areas as a substrate for ceramic tile. DensShield is manufactured to ASTM C 1178. DensArmor Plus features a tapered edge for joint finishing while DensShield has a square edge.
|
Q: What are the wicking characteristics of DensArmor Plus® panels?
|
A: With its moisture-resistant core and the absence of paper facings, DensArmor Plus® drywall resists wicking similar to DensShield® Tile Backer. (.31" over 24 hr. period)
|
Q: What is the STC (sound) rating on DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels?
|
A: STC ratings for DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels are the same as ToughRock® gypsum board in wall and ceiling assemblies.
|
Q: Which side is the back of the DensArmor Plus® panel?
|
A: The Gold® color side of DensArmor Plus® panels with the product logo is the back of the panel and should be installed facing the framing or studs. The white side or front has tapered edges for finishing.
|
Q: Which side of DensArmor Plus® high-performance interior panels should be painted or finished?
|
A: Attach the DensArmor Plus® panel with the GOLD® color (or yellow) side of the panel facing the studs or furring strips. Paint or apply a finish to the white, tapered edge side of the drywall panel facing the interior of the room.
|
Q: Are DensArmor Plus Impact-Resistant panels covered by a warranty?
|
A: All DensArmor Plus interior panels are covered by a limited warranty. Download the DensArmor Plus® Interior Panels warranty (PDF: 495KB/1pgs).
|
Q: Are there any special tools required to install DensArmor Plus Impact-Resistant interior panels?
|
A: Click here to download the technical guide which includes installation instructions. (link to 621541)
|
Q: Can DensArmor Plus Impact-Resistant panels be installed before the building is dried in?
|
A: Yes, all DensArmor Plus interior panels can be installed before the building is dried in. We call this “resequencing.” Due to the products’ special composition of fiberglass mats and treated core, DensArmor Plus panels can withstand incidental wettings during and after construction. In addition, the product is covered by a limited warranty. Download the DensArmor Plus® Interior Panels warranty (PDF: 495KB/1pgs).
|
Q: How do you finish DensArmor Plus Impact-Resistant panels?
|
A: All DensArmor Plus panels finish in a similar fashion. No special setting compounds or joint treatment reinforcements are needed. Paper or fiberglass tape can be used in the joints. For best results, use a high solid primer prior to texturing, painting or decorating the product. Download priming tips (PDF 122KB/2pages).
|
Q: What makes DensArmor Plus Impact-Resistant Panels moisture- and mold-resistant?
|
A: All DensArmor Plus interior panels have fiberglass mats, rather than paper facings on the front and back, that make the product moisture- and mold-resistant. These special features prevent the deterioration and delamination that can occur with paper faced gypsum boards. These features help DensArmor Plus panels resist the growth of mold when tested in accordance with ASTM D 3273.
|
Q: What makes DensArmor Plus® Impact-Resistant interior panels perform so well in high traffic areas?
|
A: DensArmor Plus Impact-Resistant panels are made with a denser than normal core and thicker fiberglass mats, which enable the product to meet stringent standards for abrasion, indentation and soft and hard body impact. The back panel has an additional fiberglass mesh embedded into the gypsum core during the manufacturing process. When tested in accordance with ASTM C 1629, DensArmor Plus Impact-Resistant panels meet a Level 3 for surface abrasion (the higher the number, the better); Level 1 when tested for surface indentation (The lower the number, the better); Level 3 for soft-body impact (The higher the number, the better) and Level 2 for hard body impact (the higher the number, the better.)
|
Q: What should I do if a shaftwall needs to be higher than the limiting heights table will allow?
|
A: The limiting height can be increased by switching to thicker steel (lower gauge), using a deeper stud, lowering the deflection criteria, lowering the operating pressure, or adding an extra board layer. Example: For the same deflection criteria, operating pressure and stud depth, you can increase the limiting height from 14'2" to 15'10" by switching from 25 to 20 gauge steel for the 1-hour design. For a 2-hour design, use two layers of board and the corresponding limiting height goes up from 14'2" to 15'6". The operating pressure is the pressure exerted on the shaftliner surface by air when the elevator travels up and down. At some point, you will exceed the maximum limiting height, for instance, if you want to build a 45' high wall. This number obviously is higher than the highest number given in the table. In such cases, three or four shaftwalls making up the 45' height should be built on top of each other using a back-to-back J track arrangement. Each wall needs to be supported by a fire-proofed structural member or a concrete slab of equal fire rating.
|
Q: Can I use DensGlass Sheathing as a roof board? How about its application in roof parapets?
|
A: DensGlass Sheathing should not be used in a horizontal roof application. Based on the type of cladding, DensGlass Sheathing can be used in a roof parapet. If the same roof membrane will extend from the roof onto the parapet, DensDeck® Roof Board is the right choice.
|
Q: Can we staple building paper or metal lath directly to DensGlass sheathing?
|
A: No. Building felt or building paper such as Tyvek as well as metal lath should not be attached to DensGlass sheathing. It is not a structural product. It does not offer enough holding power by itself. Such attachments should be made through DensGlass Sheathing to the framing behind. Felts and building paper are relatively light weight but mechanically fastening these to the framing members using screws and plates will ensure their long-term, in-place retention. Metal lath, with or without paper backing, should be tied following the system provider’s instructions. Lath transmits the weight of conventional portland cement stucco to the framing members.
|
Q: How can you achieve high lateral wind load ratings with DensGlass Sheathing exterior sheathing?
|
A: The highest ratings achieved by DensGlass Sheathing in recent testing was 136.7 psf, representing approximately 231 mph, using a safety factor of 3 for comparison. (Other safety factors can be used. MPH is calculated using Bernoulli's Equation, other methods are used as well.) This was achieved for a horizontal application of 5/8" DensGlass Sheathing , with studs at 8" on center, and screws at 4" on center. Please call Technical Services at 800-225-6119 to discuss the application before installation.
|
Q: How well does DensGlass sheathing stand up to high wind loads?
|
A: DensGlass sheathing has recently been tested in accordance with ASTM E 330, which evaluates the structural performance of exterior building materials under uniform static air pressure differences, using a test chamber. DensGlass Sheathing can withstand winds in excess of 155 mph, when installed horizontally with the property screws and spacing.
|
Q: Is DensGlass Sheathing covered by a limited warranty?
|
A: Yes, please click here for limited warranty. (link to 532232)
|
Q: Is it necessary to finish DensGlass Sheathing joints or use building paper?
|
A: The main reason you might consider finishing sheathing joints is to prevent air infiltration or moisture penetration into the wall cavity. A joint is a mechanical opening and DensGlass Sheathing cannot control how tight or lose it may be. Air infiltration could occur if the cut or placement is not perfect. In lieu of finishing the joints, DensGlass Sheathing can be wrapped in building paper such as a Tyvek® membrane.
While we do not require the use of building paper, it may be mandatory if local codes require it.
|
Q: Which side of the DensGuard board should I finish?
|
A: Tiles are applied to the blue side. For walls, DensGuard Tile Backer should always be hung with the blue side out and the gold side facing the studs. For floors, the blue side of the board should be facing up. The blue coating acts as a moisture barrier and is engineered for proper tile adhesion. If you have mistakenly hung the gold side out, you must remove the board and turn it around.
|
Q: Can I install a radiant heating system with DensGuard tile backer?
|
A: Yes, as long as the intended use will keep the temperature of the system below 125°F on a regular basis.
|
Q: Can I use DensGuard tile backer in a steam room or sauna?
|
A: First, we would like to provide a clear understanding of the difference between a steam room and a sauna. Steam bathing is distinguished from sauna bathing by the amount of moisture in the air and by the temperatures at which bathing takes place. The air in a sauna is very dry, aided by the wood construction of the walls and ceiling. The sauna usually operates in the temperature range of 175-190°F with low humidity. A steam bath operates in the 110-120°F temperature range with high humidity. DensGuard backer board is approved for use in a residential steam room with a maximum of 48 square feet, while it is not recommended for use in a sauna.
|
Q: Do I need to caulk every fastener?
|
A: No, simply spot the fastener heads with the tile adhesive, just prior to setting tile.
|
Q: How do I paint DensGuard® tile backer?
|
A: There are 2 methods to paint DensGuard tile backer:
1. For areas that will remain dry: skim coat with all-purpose joint compound. Allow to dry for 24 hours, sand, wipe clean, prime and paint.
2. In areas that may get wet: skim coat with a setting type joint compound. Allow to set, sand, wipe clean, prime and paint with water resistive paints.
|
Q: Is a vapor barrier required behind DensGuard tile backer like it is for cement and fiber-cement board?
|
A: Since the blue coating on DensGuard tile backer is moisture barrier, typically no additional vapor barrier is required. However, when a wet area is part of an exterior wall cavity, some state and/or local codes for colder climates may require a vapor barrier. If so, simply slit the vapor barrier with a utility knife in each stud cavity. DensGuard tile baker then becomes part of the continuous vapor barrier one the tile is set.
|
Q: What do I do where the DensGuard tile backer meets the tub flange?
|
A: There are 2 different methods to finish this area:
1. Place furring strips the same thickness as the flange on the studs prior to hanging the panel. Then attach the panel so that the edge is 1/8" above the tub deck. Fill gap with flexible sealant.
2. Hang DensGuard so that the edge of the panel meets with the top of the tub flange and caulk edge with flexible sealant. Pack gap between the edge of the tile backer panel and tub deck with thinset if needed to support tile.
|
Q: What fasteners are recommended for DensGuard tile backer?
|
A: Please see fastener guide in the installation instructions.
|
Q: What is the difference between DensArmor Plus® drywall and DensGuard® tile backer?
|
A: DensGuard tile backer is engineered to be used in direct wet areas such as a shower; the coating on the face is designed for proper tile adhesion and serves as a moisture barrier, while DensArmor Plus is designed to be used like traditional wallboard. Both DensArmor Plus and DensGuard have fiberglass mats embedded into a moisture-resistant core and resist moisture and the potential for mold growth.
|
Q: What is the difference between DensGuard tile backer and cement board or fiber-cement board?
|
A: While cement-based backer boards are water-durable they do not contribute to proper moisture management. In order to prevent the passage of moisture into the tile assembly the Tile Council of North America requires the use of a membrane to block the passage of moisture, since both the wall cavity and the floor substrate are susceptible to moisture damage. DensGuard tile backer has a built-in moisture barrier on the face which protects the wall cavity and floor substrate. It is at least 30% lighter than leading cement-based boards and has a non-abrasive, moisture-resistant core. Cement board has a heavy, crumbly, abrasive core, which can scratch tubs and fixtures. In addition, unlike cement-based backers, DensGuard backer board does not require any special tools or fasteners to cut and install.
|
Q: What is the difference between DensGuard tile backer and greenboard?
|
A: Greenboard is a paper-faced, moisture-resistant product no longer listed in the International Residential Code (IRC) or International Building Codes (IBC) for use in wet areas. DensGuard tile backer has fiberglass mats rather than paper, which removes a potential food source for mold. Also the core has been engineered to provide a greater moisture resistance than greenboard and in addition there is a moisture barrier on the face to help prevent moisture from entering the wall cavity. Finally DensGuard meets ASTM C1178 which is listed in the IRC and IBC code for use in direct wet areas.
|
Q: What should I do if I countersunk the fasteners?
|
A: Add an additional fastener about a 1" away. Cover the nail head with tile adhesive prior to tile application.
|
Q: What should I do if there are gaps in between the panels?
|
A: Seams should always be taped and filled with tile adhesive.
|
Q: What type of caulk do I use to seal the joint?
|
A: Use a flexible tub and tile caulk available in the paint department at Lowe’s Home Improvement Warehouses.
|
Q: Where can I buy DensGuard tile backer?
|
A: DensGuard® tile backer is sold exclusively at Lowe’s Home Improvement Warehouses.
|
Q: Can I paint DensShield® tile backer outside the shower area in a typical residential bathroom wall installation?
|
A: Yes, the steps to accomplish this are quite simple. First, finish the joints using fiberglass mesh tape and setting type joint compound. Next, skim the entire DensShield panel surface with setting compound. Once this material dries out, prime and paint, or prime and paper. The use of setting type joint compounds are preferred over ready mix joint compounds near moist areas.
|
Q: Can I use DensShield® tile backer on the exterior of a building as a tile backer or as a base for EIFS?
|
A: No, DensShield is not for exterior use.
|
Q: Can you use DensShield for non-tile finish systems?
|
A: Please refer to our technical brochure for using DensShield in indoor swimming pools, gang showers, car washes, food processing units, laboratories, other consistently humid areas and under surfaces that will be washed on a regular basis. Refer to the complete technical guide (PDF: 1.3MB/12pgs) for information.
|
Q: Does DensShield Tile Backer come with a limited warranty?
|
A: Please click below for the DensShield limited warranty
Download the residential limited warranty (PDF: 554KB/2pages).
Download the 20 year commercial limited warranty (PDF: 459KB/1 page).
|
Q: How do I finish DensShield® tile backer joints?
|
A: Apply standard 2" 10 x 10 woven glass mesh tape over joints and angles. This is the same type of tape used for taping cement board joints. Then, embed the tape with the same material used to set the tiles. Do not use all-purpose drywall compound. Pull setting materials tightly over the joints to reduce crown in the joint area.
|
Q: How does DensShield® tile backer compare with cement board?
|
A: DensShield Tile Backer has a built-in moisture barrier and therefore does not require a secondary moisture barrier. Cement board does not have a built-in moisture barrier and may require a secondary moisture barrier. In addition, DensShield has a considerable weight advantage over cement backers. It's 30% lighter than the leading cement board brands (1/2" comparison). That makes DensShield easier to handle on the job site and faster to install. A study conducted by the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) Research Institute showed that DensShield is 46 percent faster to install than cement board.
|
Q: If the grey coating on DensShield® tile backer is torn, can I fix it, or do I need to replace the board?
|
| A: There are two ways to accomplish this repair. The first method is the best one. The second method is recommended for residential applications only. Depending on the size and extent of the damage, the second method may not be effective.
Method 1: Remove affected tile area and surrounding tiles from stud to stud. This includes removing the DensShield panels. Fasten additional studs, known as "scabs," to the sides of the original studs to support the new DensShield. Install DensShield panels. Caulk the edges of the new DensShield with a silicone sealant caulk so the joint is waterproof. After caulk has cured, install new tiles and grout.
Method 2: Remove grout from around the affected area. Carefully score through the acrylic finish of DensShield panels under the affected area. Remove the tile, including the gray acrylic DensShield finish. Do not remove the DenShield panels. Use a penetrating sealer/primer such as shellac primer or solvent-based primer to seal the exposed DensShield core. Install the tile with either a mastic or modified thin-set. Regrout the area.
|
Q: To which side of DensShield tile backer should I apply tiles?
|
A: The DensShield panel should be positioned next to framing with the coated (grey) side facing away from the studs. Apply mortar or mastic and tile to the coated (grey) side of DensShield. The acrylic coating stops moisture penetration on the surface.
|
Q: What is 90 compound and where is it used?
|
A: There are two different types of joint compounds: drying and setting types. Drying type compounds are composed of limestone and binder. These compounds work best with paper tape and must dry out completely before the binder becomes effective. Setting compounds set hard prior to drying, much like concrete and are more resistant to moisture than drying type compounds. Setting compounds work well with fiberglass mesh tape. ToughRock™ 90, the Georgia-Pacific Gypsum brand of setting compound, is recommended for skim coating DensShield® tile backer.
Click here for installation instructions
(PDF: 670KB/12pgs).
|
Q: What makes DensShield® tile backer different from greenboard (paper-faced moisture-resistant gypsum board)?
|
A: DensShield Tile Backer is an entirely different product than greenboard. The paper facings of greenboard can wick water, and can delaminate when exposed to moisture, causing tile failure. Greenboard is not recommended for use in extreme high moisture (wet) areas and therefore does not meet the 2006 IRC Section R702.4.2 for backer for wall tile in tub and shower areas. DensShield Tile Backer has a heat-cured acrylic coating over its face mat with face and back mats made of fiberglass instead of paper, and has a proprietary, treated moisture-resistant core. DensShield offers a proven tile backer design that is compliant with more stringent 2006 IRC and IBC codes.
|
Q: Why should I apply thin-set mortar to the subfloor before putting down DensShield® tile backer?
|
A: Many of our customers feel as long as they are using mechanical fasteners such as nails or screws to fasten DensShield tile backer to a sub-floor, that applying thin-set mortar is a superfluous step. This is not true. The application of thin-set over plywood eliminates any air gaps between the subfloor and the back of the DensShield panels. If this step is not completed, air gaps could cause movement and crack the grout lines or tile.
|
Q: Can I use joint compounds produced by other gypsum companies on Georgia-Pacific gypsum board?
|
A: Yes. Joint compounds produced by other companies can be used with good results on Georgia-Pacific gypsum board provided these compounds meet or exceed ASTM C 475 product standards. However, do not mix compounds produced by different companies. Use the same brand of compound for all coats. Otherwise, there may be a reaction between the proprietary ingredients of each brand.
|
Q: I’m using one month old Ready-Mix joint compound. It’s trapping air bubbles. What should I do?
|
A: The joint compound should be mixed thoroughly before each use. If the joint compound pail was not closed properly after the previous use, a small amount of water should be added prior to mixing. Always use clean mud pans, taping knives and other tools.
|
Q: My dog ate joint compound. What should I do?
|
A: While this may appear to be a funny question, it deserves a serious and professional answer. Even though our joint compound is non-toxic, take the pet to a veterinarian. You or the vet can call our Environmental Safety department at 404-652-5119 for information. Information about safety and first aid measures is also available in the Material Safety Data Sheet (PDF 135KB/7pgs) for All-purpose Ready-Mix joint compounds.
|
Q: What are other uses of joint compound?
|
A: In addition to finishing joints, joint compounds are used to skim coat or texture gypsum board surfaces. Water or latex based paint can be added to joint compound to texture the board surface. Refer to The Wallworks Guide (PDF:1.7MB/8pgs). Joint compounds also are used as an adhesive to laminate gypsum board to gypsum board or interior concrete masonry wall surfaces.
|
Q: What is 90 compound and where is it used?
|
A: There are two different types of joint compounds; drying and setting types. Drying type compounds are composed of limestone and binder. These compounds must dry out completely before the binder becomes effective. Setting compounds work well with fiberglass mesh tape. ToughRock® 90, the Georgia-Pacific Gypsum brand of setting compound, is recommended for skim coating DensShield® Tile Backer and DensGlass® Sheathing (see literature for application recommendations).
|
Q: What should I do if Ready-Mix joint compound freezes?
|
A: First, do not allow Ready-Mix joint compound to freeze. However, in the event that the compound does freeze, it should be allowed to thaw completely. Do not force the thawing cycle with heaters, heat guns, etc. Simply place the bucket in a warmer environment. Once thawed, it should be mixed thoroughly. Then try it out on a small area to test its working characteristics. Multiple freeze and thaw cycles will have a negative impact on workability and may cause the compound to form small lumps. In this case, it should be discarded.
|
Q: Can I use gypsum board in ceilings at 24" o.c. support?
|
A: According to the Gypsum Association publications GA-216 and GA-201, gypsum board could be applied in a ceiling framed 24" o.c. provided the board length is at right angles to the framing members. The Gypsum Association also mentions that a water-based texture should not be applied to any board applied to framing 24" o.c. The excessive amount of water in the texture could cause the board to sag. We always advise our customers to use either 5/8" board or CD ceiling board in such applications. Once the board sags, it is much more expensive to replace than to use the right product initially. Sag in the ceilings of new homes is a common complaint. Most of the time, research reveals it is not the board but job site conditions that cause the board to sag. Propane heaters combined with poor ventilation cause build-up of moisture in the house. A non-insulated (poly sheet) vapor barrier in the plenum also could cause board sag. The water in the texture evaporates through the board and into the plenum. If the vapor barrier has not been insulated prior to texture painting, the water vapor condenses against this surface and drips back onto the board.
|
Q: Do we need to use the 6" wide Type C battens over the H stud flanges in the area separation wall system?
|
A: Older area separation wall designs required the web of H-stud flanges to be covered with 6" wide Type C gypsum board battens. The reason was very simple. In a fire test, the H-stud web exposed to the fire on one side would transmit the high temperature readily to the unexposed side and prematurely fail the test. The new design, which includes the wood frame wall as part of the assembly, simply requires that a 3/4" air space be left between the flange and the wood frame.
|
Q: What purpose do the aluminum angle clips serve in the area separation wall system?
|
A: The aluminum alloy clips attach the area separation wall to the wood frame wall. In the event of a fire, the clips will melt at about 1,000°F, letting the burning wood frame wall fall away from the area separation wall. These clips are screw-attached to the web on every other H-stud and nailed or screwed to the wood top plates 48” o.c. maximum.
|
Q: What should we do if the gypsum board gets wet?
|
A: Gypsum board should not be allowed to get wet; it should be covered if stored outside. However, there are situations where the board could get wet in transportation/storage or installed in-place. If the board gets wet in an installed in-place situation, first remove the sources of moisture. Then, allow the board to dry out thoroughly. Once the board is dry, examine it for paper-to-core bond failure, mold and mildew growth, nail pops and sag (in case of ceilings). Paper-to-core bond failure and board sag are irreversible damages and the board should be replaced. Mold can be cleaned using a vinegar and water solution or alternates (use care when using bleach or chlorine solutions). For nail pops, place a fastener an inch above or below any popped-up nail.
|
Q: Are plant pick-ups allowed?
|
A: Yes. However, there is a 22-24 Short Ton minimum for plant pick-ups.
|
Q: Can GP ship products in bulk bags?
|
A: Yes. Click here for details.
|
Q: Can Set Times be adjusted?
|
A: Yes, by customer's request according to specific need.
|
Q: Can we private label?
|
A: We can package using customers' bags.
|
Q: Does GP have a fiber-based product for added tensil strength?
|
A: Yes. Denscast
|
Q: Does GP have a product for GRG type applications?
|
A: Yes. Densite HL
|
Q: How many bags of plaster come on a pallet?
|
A: 40 bags/pallet for 100 lbs. bags or 55 bags/pallet for 100 lbs. bags (Receiving equipment must be able to handle 5500 lbs.) or 80 bags/pallet for 50 lbs. bags
|
Q: What amount of tonnage can we load on a pallet?
|
A: 4000 lbs. or 2 Short Tons; 5500 lbs. or 2.75 Short Tons (Receiving equipment must be able to handle 5500 lbs.)
|
Q: What are GP's testing procedures for quality assurance before shipment of material?
|
A: See "Quality Assurance".
|
Q: What are the dimensions of our bulk bags empty and full?
|
A: a) 42 cubic foot bulk bags: Bag Size Empty = 36" x 36" x 49"; Filled Dimensions = 45" diameter x 44" high; Loops = 12"; Rated Capacity = 2500 lbs. Actual weights vary depending on product density.; Alpha Capacity = approximately 2500 lbs.; Beta Capacity = approximately 2200 lbs.
b) 52 cubic foot bulk bags: Bag Size Empty = 36" x 36" 59"; Filled Dimensions = 45" diameter x 55" high; Loops = 12"; Rated Capacity = 3300 lbs.; Actual weights vary depending on product density.; Alpha Capacity = approximately 3000 lbs.; Beta Capacity = approximately 2400 lbs.
|
Q: What is recommended proper storage of plaster?
|
A: Covered, dry, climate controlled area.
|
Q: What is the minimum order?
|
A: Please contact the Area Sales Manager nearest you.
|
Q: What is the shelf life of plaster?
|
A: Approximately 3 months depending on the product line and if properly stored.
|
Q: What methods of transportation are available?
|
A: Blue Rapids, KS Plant: Bulk Truck, Flatbed Truck, Van, Containers, Bulk Rail, Boxcar; Las Vegas, NV Plant: Bulk Truck, Flatbed Truck, Van, Containers, Boxcar
|
Q: What size bags are available?
|
A: 100 lbs., 80 lbs. 50 lbs. depending on product.
|
Q: What size pallets are available?
|
A: 44" x 53" standard pallet; 44" x 53" and 40" x 48" bulk bag
|
Q: What type of plaster should I use for general use, i.e. casting?
|
A: Specification Index
|
Q: Where is the nearest stocking distributor in my area?
|
A: Please contact the Area Sales Manager nearest you
|
Q: Who do I contact to obtain a sample?
|
A: 22-24 Short Tons. Should you require less than 22-24 Short Tons, please contact the Area Sales Manager nearest you.
|
Q: Are there special precautions for handling treated wood?
|
A: Consult the safety section of this guide and the treated wood MSDS for safety precautions.
|
Q: Do I have to apply a finish to the wood?
|
A: It is recommended decks be finished with a high quality penetrating stain or water repellent. Be sure to follow stain manufacturers’ application instructions and to properly clean and prepare the surface before application.
|
Q: How long should I wait before I apply a finish to my deck?
|
A: The waiting period varies, depending on the size of lumber used, time since treatment, and climatic conditions, and is typically several days to a couple weeks. Consult finish manufacturer’s application instructions for more detail.
|
Q: How should I dispose of unused wood?
|
A: Clean up treated wood scraps and sawdust after construction and dispose in accordance with federal, state and local regulations. Do not burn treated wood, as toxic materials may be produced as part of the smoke or ashes.
|
Q: I plan to use 5/4 decking. How far apart can I space the joists?
|
A: GP recommends joists be spaced no more than 16” on center. Installation of 5/4 decking over spans greater than 16”o.c. can result in a deck that feels “bouncy”. Be sure to consult your local building code requirements.
|
Q: Should I space decking boards during installation?
|
A: It is recommended boards be butted tightly together during installation to minimize the resulting gap that can occur after the wood dries. If the wood is allowed to dry prior to installation, a small gap may be used between boards.
|
Q: What is a board foot?
|
A: The basic unit of measurement for lumber. One board foot is equal to a volume 1 inch thick by 1 foot in width by 1 foot in length.
|
Q: What is hardwood?
|
A: A general term referring to any of a variety of broadleaved deciduous trees and to wood from those trees.
|
Q: What is pressure treatment?
|
A: In pressure treatment, chemical preservatives are forced into the cellular structure of the wood in a closed cylinder under pressure. This process enables the preserved wood to maintain a chemical barrier against termites and decay.
|
Q: What is softwood?
|
A: A general term referring to any variety of trees having narrow, needle-like leaves, generally coniferous and the wood from such trees.
|
Q: What type nails or screws are recommended for use with treated wood?
|
A: Hot-dipped galvanized (G-185) and stainless steel fasteners are recommended for use with preservative treated wood. See “Installation & Care” tab for more detail.
|
Q: Where can I find information about lumber grades?
|
A: For information on lumber grades, you can visit the Southern Pine Council’s website at www.southernpine.com, or call their Help Desk at (253) 620-7400.
|
Q: Why should wood be pressure treated?
|
A: Wood is pressure treated to give it protection from attack by insects, microorganisms, decay by fungi and moisture that can cause damage to the wood. Treated wood provides users a longer lasting product by extending the service life and the useful life of structures. Consult the Viance Lifetime Limited Warranty for more information on ACQ-D treated wood, and the Wolmanized Lifetime Limited Warranty for CA-C treated wood.
|
Q: What is Oriented Strand Board (OSB)?
|
A: Oriented Strand Board is a structural panel made from strands of wood layered at right angles and glued together with resin.
|
Q: What are engineered panel products?
|
A: Panel products made of wood veneer or wood chips and shavings held together by special glues called resins. Heat and pressure is added to the wood to form a strong bond, thus forming a variety of products including plywood, particleboard, medium density fiberboard, laminated veneer lumber and oriented strand board.
|
Q: What are fibers?
|
A: The long, thick walled cells that give strength and support to plants.
|
Q: What are wood fibers?
|
A: Grow vertically and it is this direction that wood is strongest.
|
Q: What is a chip?
|
A: A small piece of wood used to make pulp. The chips are made from wood waste in a sawmill or plywood plant, or from pulpwood cut specifically for this purpose.
|
Q: What is a span rating?
|
A: The span rating indicates the maximum center-to-center spacing in inches of support, over which panels can be installed. Some products feature a two-span rating such as 24/16. The first number represents the maximum support spacing for a roof application, and the second number indicates a maximum spacing of supports for flooring.
|
Q: What is a square foot?
|
A: Equals a square 12 inches on each side and can be any thickness. It is typically used to measure engineered panel products that are less than 1” thick, including plywood, particleboard, medium density fiberboard and oriented strand board.
|
Q: What is B-C?
|
A: Some wood panels are identified by the veneer grade used, typically on the face and back veneers. B-C is a plywood product composed of a B-grade face and a C-grade back. It provides a nice appearance and the face is sanded for improved smoothness.
|
Q: What is fiberboard?
|
A: A general term that refers to any various panel products such as particleboard, hardboard or chipboard formed by bonding wood fibers by heat and pressure.
|
Q: What is rated sheathing?
|
A: Rated sheathing is a performance rated panel designed for applications where strength and stiffness, not the appearance of the panel, is important. Rated sheathing is an Exposure 1 panel that is able to withstand limited elements during construction.
|
Q: What is the APA—The Engineered Wood Association?
|
A: APA is an independent, non-profit trade organization whose member mills produce the majority of the wood panel products manufactured in North America. Their services include quality testing, inspections and research.
|
Q: What is the difference between and Exterior and Exposure 1 panel?
|
A: An Exterior panel s bonded with exterior waterproof glue and can be installed in applications permanently exposed to the elements. An Exposure 1 panel is an interior-grade panel bonded with exterior waterproof glue. The product is intended to be covered but can withstand limited weather exposure during construction.
|
Q: What is veneer?
|
A: Thin sheets of wood.
|
Q: How can I prevent plywood from chipping and splintering when I cut it?
|
A: Since plywood is constructed of thin layers of veneer, cutting plywood with a power saw can be challenging. Even if you use a plywood blade with small teeth, the thin outer layer of plywood ( face veneer) can tear. This may not be a problem if only the "good face" (show face) will be seen. Place the good face downward when using a circular saw and upward when using a table saw. This won't prevent splintering--but it only occurs on the unseen face. A few tips to help reduce splintering when both faces will be visible: Before cutting the plywood, score the face of the veneer on both sides along the cut lines using a utility knife. Also, you can cover the cut line on both sides with masking tape, which helps support the thin veneer and keeps it from chipping during cutting. On a table saw, try the double-cut technique. Adjust the saw blade settings to slice approximately three-quarters of the way through the plywood, and begin the cut. Flip the plywood over and make another pass to complete the cut. The finished edge should be nearly chip free.
|
Q: How should Plytanium® plywood panels be stored on the job site?
|
A: All wood panels should be:
- kept dry
- stored on risers, not directly on the ground
- covered with plastic or a tarp in exterior sites, while still allowing for air circulation
- handled carefully when loading and unloading to prevent damage
|
Q: What is particleboard?
|
A: Panel made from wood chips or shavings mixed with resin.
|
Q: What is plywood?
|
A: Panel made of thin sheets of wood that are glued together.
|
Q: Why should Plytanium plywood panels be spaced?
|
A: APA recommends plywood panels be spaced 1/8” at all edges to minimize the risk for unevenness as panels take on moisture and expand slightly. Spacing during installation helps to insure a flat, level wood surface.
|
Q: Can decorative panels be used in basements?
|
A: All Georgia-Pacific decorative wall panels can be installed in dry basements following installation recommendations installation instructions for below grade and over masonry walls. Please see installation instructions (PDF: 273KB/8pgs) for more details.
|
Q: Can decorative panels be used in mobile homes?
|
A: Lionite® Tileboard and plank paneling products can be used within mobile homes. These decorative panels are certified to meet HUD 24 CFR Part 3200 formaldehyde emission requirements for plywood wall paneling and can be used in mobile homes with adequate ventilation. Our other decorative wall panels contain low levels of urea formaldehyde resin and may release formaldehyde vapors in extremely low concentrations. Mount Vernon® wall paneling is a thin medium density fiberboard (MDF) base and meets HUD formaldehyde emission requirements for MDF and particleboard but not for plywood paneling. Therefore it can be used with adequate ventilation in limited applications in mobile homes but not for full wall paneling.
|
Q: Can you install decorative panels directly to studs?
|
A: Building codes require that panels thinner than 1/4" be installed over a non-combustible backer over studs. Georgia-Pacific Western Vista panels, 1/8" and 3/16" hardboard; 1/8" and 5/32" Mount Vernon® and StyleLine® wall panels always should be installed over a solid, non-combustible backing such as gypsum wallboard. Please see installation instructions (PDF: 273KB/8pgs) for more detail.
|
Q: Can you paint and/or stain Georgia-Pacific Decorative Panels?
|
A: Georgia-Pacific manufactures several different types of decorative panels. Prefinished Georgia-Pacific decorative panels should not be painted. These panels are ready to use and need no additional finishings. Jubilee® Ready-to-Paint is factory primed and intended to be painted as needed with a high quality acrylic latex paint. Any of the unfinished real wood decorative panels from Georgia-Pacific are paintable. It is recommended that unfinished decorative panels be primed and painted with a water-based acrylic latex primer and paint system formulated by the manufacturer to be compatible. Water based acrylic latex allows for easier clean up, has less odor than oil-based paints and contains little or no VOC (volatile organic compounds.) Some unfinished decorative panels are stainable depending on the face grade and patch materials used for face repairs. Please refer to installation instructions (PDF:273KB/8pgs) for more information.
|
Q: How do you clean and protect decorative panels?
|
A: To remove surface accumulations such as dust, just wipe Georgia-Pacific decorative panels with a soft cloth dampened with furniture polish containing no waxes or silicones. More stubborn accumulations may require wiping with a soft cloth dampened with a solution of lukewarm water and a mild liquid detergent. Wipe with a clean, dry cloth immediately following this procedure.
|
Q: How do you cover the seams of decorative panels?
|
A: Georgia-Pacific Prefinished Decorative Panels are manufactured with a beveled edge coated the same base color as the groove lines so seams need not be finished. If desired, the appearance of seams can be minimized by painting the backing behind the paneling in the seam area a matching groove color to reduce any contrast at gaps left for spacing due to slight dimensional changes.
|
Q: How do you fasten trim to these panels?
|
A: Trim or moldings are typically fastened by nailing through Georgia-Pacific decorative paneling and into the supporting framing. Nail length should allow a minimum 3/4" penetration into framing. Prefinished trim is typically nailed with a color matching painted nail. Unfinished trim is typically stained or painted before installation over prefinished paneling and nailed with a color matching nail. Over unfinished paneling, trim can be nailed with a finish nail, set slightly and putty filled prior to finishing of the trim and paneling.
|
Q: Should you install with gaps between decorative panels to compensate for movement?
|
A: Hardwood and MDF - a 1/16" gap between adjacent panels is recommended to allow for expansion. Never butt panels tightly. A 3/16" space should be provided around windows and doors.
Plywood – A 1/16” gap between adjacent panels is recommend to allow for expansion. Never butt panels tightly. A 3/16” space should be provided around windows and doors.
Tileboard – Leave a 3/16” gap between panels, including 1/16” between panel edge and the inside of the moulding. Please see installation instructions (PDF: 273KB/8pgs) for more detail.
|
Q: What is medium-density fiberboard?
|
A: Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) is a dry-formed panel product manufactured from wood fibers combined with a synthetic resin and compressed in a hot press.
|
Q: What kind of glue do you use to secure decorative panels?
|
A: Adhesive application may be used to apply Plywood, Hardboard and 1/4” MDF.* For 5/32” and 1/8” MDF use both adhesive and nails.
Plywood, Hardboard and MDF – adhesive may be used to apply panels directly to studs or over existing walls as long as the surface is level, sound and clean. Once the panel is fitted, apply beads of adhesive with a caulking gun in a continuous strip along the top, bottom and both sides of the panel. On intermediate studs, apply beads 3” long and 6” apart. Over solid backing, apply adhesive in a zigzag pattern between studs. Some supplemental nailing will be necessary to hold the panel in place until the adhesive sets. Be sure to read the adhesive manufacturer’s instructions carefully prior to installation, as instructions may vary. Use a hammer and padded wood block (or rubber mallet) to set the glued panel in position. Please see installation instructions (PDF: 273KB/8pgs) for more detail
*Use only a latex water based adhesive with MDF panels. Solvent based adhesive may cause discoloration of finished on MDF panels.
|
Q: What type of nails do you use to secure decorative panels to the wall?
|
| A: Georgia-Pacific Plywood, Hardboard, and MDF (medium density fiberboard) – Panel grooves are usually located every 16”, allowing nails to be placed in the grooves on standard 16” stud centers. Panel matching colored ringshank nails are recommended. Use 1" nails to apply paneling to studs alone, 1-1/2” nails to apply paneling through a solid backing or plaster. Space nails 6” along panel edges and 8”, (12” plywood) on intermediate studs. Please wear eye protection when nailing.
Tileboard – do not nail tileboard. Use a good-quality paneling adhesive and spread according to manufacturer’s instructions. With a 3/16” notched trowel, scrape the panel so that you leave only ridges of adhesive covering the entire back surface of the panel. If you are using moulding, insert prior to setting panels permanently in place. Carefully set the panels in place and press them firmly against the wall. After 15 minutes, press panels again to ensure proper adhesion. Please see installation instructions (PDF: 273KB/8pgs) for more detail.
|
Q: What type of saw do you use to cut decorative panels and how do you cut it properly?
|
A: Plywood, MDF (medium density fiberboard), and Hardboard – If measured floor-to-ceiling height is 8’ or less, subtract 1/2” from the measurement to allow 1/4” expansion clearance top and bottom. Transfer these measurements to panels for cutting. If using a handsaw or table saw, mark and cut the panels face up. If using a portable circular saw or saber saw, mark and cut panels face down. Cut-outs for door and window sections, electrical switches and outlets or heat registers require careful measurements. Please see installation instructions (PDF: 273KB/8pgs) for more detail.
|
